|
|
|
|
 Tomoya Hayakawa, the young, self-confident chef and owner of I'bischero was once a Tokyo salaryman. One day he got restless, quit, went to Italy to knock around, and was lucky enough to land a job at the small, family-run Trattoria Pandemonio in Firenze. Working there four years, he ate every meal with the family and staff, and educated his tongue to the tastes of Tuscany.  Hayakawa champions a slow-food approach to dining, and his carefully crafted menu includes many of the same dishes as Pandemonio - dishes with simple tastes, a little sophisticated but with no extra arrangement or garnishes. Thus, his tagliata di manzo: tender Japanese sirloin seared, then quickly grilled, sliced, and laid on a bed of fresh rucola. Nothing added but a bit of olive oil and sea salt. Perfetto. The menu features some ten to fifteen choices each for antipasti, pastas and risottos, and main dishes. After several meals there, I've eaten through much of the menu and have discovered no duds. Even if you normally eschew tripe, the trippa alla fiorentina might convert you to that humble, delectable fare. With his risottos, Hayakawa bucks tradition using long-grained jasmine rice instead of Italian or Japanese rice, and the results are delicious. In season, the oyster risotto should not be missed.  Hayakawa's favorite olive oil, Fattoria Regli Ulivi, can't be found in Japan, so he imports it. This fine oil reveals its character with those heavenly white beans. Cooked to perfection, each bean has a luscious creamy texture, yet still remains firm. Their earthy taste is accented by hints of sage, rosemary, onions, and garlic, which meld with the fruity notes of the olive oil. Generous shavings of bottarga (preserved grey mullet roe) then add a lively, salty counterpoint to the dish. I'bischero is airy, simply laid out, with warm woody tones. In the main dining room, rustic beams run along the ceiling and large windows allow plenty of natural light. Off to one side is an alcove with a few tables lit by small candles for the more romantically minded. Prices are very reasonable at I'bischero, though the wine list, which covers all regions of Italy, could benefit from a few more inexpensive bottles. The house wine, though, a sturdy Tuscan Antinori Santa Cristina priced at 2500 yen, is more than adequate. One small quibble: when ordering the house wine, you won't get proper-sized wine glasses unless you ask for them. The days when a restaurant could change its name and flag from French to Italian and sell faux dishes like "Neapolitan spaghetti" or "Pizza Romana" to an unsuspecting public are long gone. Restaurant goers in Tokyo have become very discerning. Hayakawa choose his out-of-the-way location with that in mind-only those people, he says, who care enough about good Italian food will come to Kiba to find him. - Mike Kleindl March 2005 |
|
|||||||||||||||||||
 |
