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| Fukumitsuya: Ginza | |||
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Fukumitsuya calls itself a sake shop, but at first glance you might take it for just another of the sleek boutiques that line the back streets of Ginza. The look is stylish contemporary, with discreet spot-lighting and cool jazz emanating from the sound system. You could be in some crafts gallery, an impression reinforced by the exquisite sake utensils on display, not just cups and flasks - made from wood, lacquerware, cast iron, pewter, ceramic and glass - but also wrapping cloths, plates and chopsticks.
The stand-out items include feather-light wooden sake cups (Y3,500); elegant flasks with matching thimble-sized cups in delicate Kutani porcelain (Y100,000 for the set); and a variety of beautiful hand-made glasses, perfect for a chilled ginjo. Those not in the mood for such a lavish splurge may be more interested in the traditional tenugui cloths of light cotton (around Y900); many kinds of chopsticks; and even those simple sake-tasting cups with their handsome indigo snake-eye pattern (a mere Y200 each). When you're done with browsing, belly up to the dark-wood counter (there are two bar stools, otherwise you have to stand) and sample some of scores of different sake kept in stock. Fukumitsuya produces several brands, the best known of which in Kanto are Kuro-obi (full bodied and slightly sweet) and Kaga-no-tobi - try the Arashibiri, a crisp, new-season brew fresh from the vat (Y300 per shot glass). But one of the best reasons for a visit is the chance to sip on more unusual offerings: delicate-pink Nipponia Nippon, a densely-perfumed daiginjo with the color and fruity nose of a rose wine, which is made with an ancient strain of red rice; or Mizuho koshu, a premium aged sake, vintage 1990 (Y1,000 per snifter). Or, most unusual of all, seven-year aged mirin, as dark and rich as ancient Madeira wine. If you like what you see and taste, then you may be tempted to adjourn to Mizuho, their second-floor restaurant, where you can match the sake with courses of simple, light Japanese cuisine in surroundings that are equally chic. by Robbie Swinnerton |
Fukumitsuya
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