4 (Shi): Shibuya
4 (shi) has one of the best and wackiest locations for a bar. It is tucked in right under the Yamanote-sen tracks where they lead south out of Shibuya Station. Every time a train pulls in, the room shakes and the music takes a back seat to the commotion above. But you'd be surprised how quickly you become accustomed to this.

The space was first converted into a bar seven years ago by Mi-chan, the mama from Vive La Vie, but the current master P-chan has already been in residence for two and a half years. He was a hesitant host at first, but on my last visit I was pleasantly surprised to find a more mellow and confident P-chan at the helm. The interior is still simple and arty, but there are plans to add more original lighting by artist Takeo Hayashi, who designed the two boomerang fixtures already installed.

P-chan has also used his time well to develop a collection of top-shelf spirits, among which tequila and rum are most prominent. Something special like a Jose Cuervo Reserve de la Familia will set you back 3,500 yen a shot, so I would advise checking the prices before indulging. I was most impressed with the range of rum, which included my favorite Haitian label Barbancourt, with a 15-year old version going for a mere 1,400 yen a shot.

4 is now open for lunch during the week, but it's busiest at bar time on the weekend - perhaps because it's such a short walk (or a stagger) back to the station...

by "Sister Chill"



4 (Shi)

3-29-70 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku
03-5489-2630

Open Tuesday to Friday from midday till 4pm for lunch, and from 4pm till last train (or later) for drinks. Open 4pm till last train (or later) on Saturday and Sunday. Closed Monday. No cover charge. Drinks from 700 yen.

Closest station: Shibuya. Take the South Exit and cross Route 246 via the pedestrian overpass. Take the stairs down on the far left-hand side and turn right into the street that runs parallel to the Yamanote tracks. 4 is less than a minute along on the left-hand side.